| Whitewater Europe II - South Alps - typical chapter |
| Here's a typical river chapter: |
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The Centre The Sesia is a relatively unspoilt valley draining the south east slopes of the Monte Rosa. It offers some of Italy's best white water in very beautiful surroundings and is at its best in late spring and early summer. The centre is about 13 hours hard drive from Calais by the German and Swiss auto routes (see 'driving from the U.K.'), or more expensively but more relaxed via the French auto routes and the Mont Blanc tunnel (approx. £18 single). If coming via the Aosta valley then it is better to use the Italian motor ways where possible, rather than local roads. Turning off the auto route and driving up the Sesia valley is like entering another world and stepping back in time two centuries. The Sesia valley is fairly convenient for Milan and Turin so it can get a little busy at weekends in the summer, and the main road up the valley can be exciting on Friday and Sunday evenings! |
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On the River Paddling friends threatened physical violence if we included the Sesia valley in this book! - here's an incredibly beautiful river system that is unlike anything else in the Alps: turquoise green, clear water flowing between granite boulders and falls (the reason why the water is so clear). Ask kayakers what the Sesia valley reminds them of and you get replies like: Idaho, Costa Rica, Nepal, or Southern China - this is because the valley is such a jungle green and the river so clear. The difference is that the runs here are shorter and more intense, with some highly photogenic falls. It's mainly a centre for kayakers who enjoy steep class 4 & 5, but there is one classic run for the intermediate paddler on the lower Sesia. |
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Apart from one small dam on the Sermenza, the Sesia and its tributaries are beautifully unspoilt
natural flowing rivers, and the valley has been suggested for protection similar to the American Wild
and Scenic rivers. River runners can give support and help by spending their tourist income wisely,
supporting local businesses and communities. Reliance on natural flow means that the rivers are at their
best in May and June - come here in a drought in August and you will be disappointed, but in low water
there are still short runs on the upper Sesia, the Sesia Gorge, and down to the campsite. The valley seems to have its own micro climate with rain showers common in the afternoons: this relatively abundant rainfall makes it very green, with luxuriant deciduous trees climbing the valley sides and just the granite cliffs and the occasional church tower showing through the trees. The river also has a history of floods, normally in the Autumn - the last big one was in 1993 and it changed many of the rapids. |
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The Sesia and its tributaries are popular for angling and so paddling is restricted to the hours
10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. Access points for the main runs are normally sign-posted off the highway with
yellow signs: 'imbarco' is put-in, 'sbarco' is take-out. A recreational race and rally is usually held
each year on the third weekend in June. To the north of the Sesia valley are the difficult rivers of the Tessin, the Verzasca, Cannobino, St Bernardino, etc. which flow into Lake Maggiore (see Piedmont Guidebook). |
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Commercial Rafting Rafting and hydro-speeding take place on the lower Sesia which is a fine run, but the season is usually short, the river normally being too shallow for rafting in July and August. Off the River Recommended activity here has to be exploring some of the villages in the side valleys - all these villages have that feeling of traditional, proud communities with solid, well maintained houses, many of them having frescoes on the end walls and intricate wood carving. Decorated churches dominate every village and many hilltops, and small shrines line the roads and paths. Rassa (up the Sorba valley) is particularly picturesque, but for a true mountain village you should take a one hour hike up from Alagna to the hidden Otro valley and the wooden houses of the Walser people, a German speaking community who have lived in this high remote spot underneath Monte Rosa for seven centuries. Mountain Guides can be hired for high mountain walking and visits to glaciers. |
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Most of the side valleys such as the Sermenza have little traffic and it's very pleasant to explore
these by cycle. For the mountain biker we recommend a ride on good tracks down the right hand side of
the Sesia valley from Mollia to Scopello. There is also a more serious expedition from Scopello over
the Alpe di Mera to the Sessera valley. Varallo is the main town of the valley, and is a pleasant place to stroll and shop - there's a thriving market on Tuesdays (local speciality is the toma cheese). The town is famous for the Sacro Monte built in the 14th century high above the town as a 'New Jerusalem' with 44 decorated chapels. Materialistic river runners may be more interested in the ice cream shops and Pizza restaurants - we recommend "la Sfinge" that has a balcony overlooking the Mastallone. Another good restaurant is "la Rana" in Boccioleto; we had a six course meal of local specialities, as much as you could eat, and wine for about £15. |
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Campsites There are only a few official campsites in the valley. The one that stands out and that we strongly recommend is at the Scuola di canoa della Valsesia approx. 7 km upstream of Varallo. This is a really beautiful site: green fields and trees on the banks of the river, a log cabin cafe/bar, hot showers, and a warm welcome for all river runners. At approx. £4 per head (no extras for cars, tents, etc.) it is very good value when compared to other more typical 'sardine-like' campsites. Hospital There is a small hospital in Varallo. Dial 113 for Police and rescue services. Maps IGC 1:50,000 sheet 10, Monte Rosa, covers the area; but there is an excellent free map at 1:85,000 available from the Tourist Offices. You should also ask for the free rivers map 'Carta Fluviale' that shows all the rivers and grades of difficulty. |
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Tourist Offices Corsa Roma, 38-13019 Varello Sesia, VC. Tel: 0163 51280, Fax: 53091. Also offices in Scopello and Alagna. |
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Here's what a typical page layout looks like - the river map is in two colours and always on the
left (we cannot show you the quality). This is followed by the text of an example river description: |
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Summary A river that looks like as if it should be in the Himalayas: lots of boulder rapids, friendly and fun, clear blue water, white beaches and green valley sides. An ideal run for both intermediates and experts with lots of white water interest. Special points Rapids change from year to year owing to floods. Rafting This is a delightful uncrowded rafting run that we can recommend with confidence providing there is sufficient water. "Little Canada" provides the highlight of the trip, but there is plenty of other white water interest. Both major operators also offer hydro-speeding, but this is not as popular here in Italy as it is in France. Rafting runs normally finish at Valmaggia where there is a safer and more convenient take out than Varallo. |
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Access and Logistics The main put-in is just below the confluence with the Sermenza, reached down a short path from the main road junction at Balmuccia, where there is plenty of parking space. There is an alternative put-in just below 'little Canada' rapid which is 1 km below Balmuccia, so we suggest that you stop on your way up the valley to scout this and decide how brave you feel. The rapid is next to a large lay-by and is signposted 'rapide di Balmuccia' - apparently the rocks here are a favourite basking place for local snakes, so watch you step! The take-out is on the left of the weir just above Varallo - take the Varallo turn off the main road; this curves round and underneath the main road; you then need to take the first small road to the right before the road goes under the bridge, and follow this rough road back up the river for some 500m to the weir. This weir would be very dangerous if you shot it by mistake: you should scout this take-out in advance if you intend to use it. There is a more convenient and safer take-out just downstream of the church in Valmaggia. The campsite at the Scuola di canoa della Valsesia makes a convenient lunch or coffee stop. |
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The Run ……sorry, you'll have to buy the book if you want this! Description ……sorry, you'll have to buy the book if you want this! Here's a typical description: |
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Summary The lower gorges of the Sermenza is one of the best high-end runs in the Alps - when it has water (normally good levels in Spring, but flows in May and June will be less). It offers gradient combined with volume, spectacular drops, little gorges of a jungle-like nature, and makes a memorable climax to any trip to the Val Sesia. Water flow is controlled by a reservoir upstream at Rimasco and there is normally a release mid-week from about 10 a.m. onwards. A new micro HEP system has its outfall above Piaggogna, so the kilometre upstream from there is normally dry. The bottom gorge and water levels can be inspected on the drive up the valley. Park considerately on the road at Piaggogna (about 1.5 km above Boccioleto) and carry your boat down the path that zigzags through this ancient village to put in at the old stone bridge. |
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There is only a few hundred metres of easier water in which to limber uo before the river gets
harder with two class 4 drops on blind corners leading into a steep combination of falls starting with
a 5m drop. The triple drop that follows is class 6 and usually portaged. This and the rapids that follow
were changed by the 1993 floods so be cautious of what any old dog paddlers tell you! Final rapid of
this steep upper section is 'Sawmill Falls' a huge 8m long slide with a monster stopper at the bottom. A footbridge and path leads up to Boccioleto and then below here is a continuous gorge with many exciting rapids, and three exceptional ones that are class 5. If you portage once then you tend to portage them all. Below here is a more open valley and easier water for about 1.5 km. This brings you down to a little canyon, class 5-, which is often under-estimated - a swim here could be fatal - and we recommend setting up safety cover for the first drop after the entrance rapid. Below here, within the gorge are some roller coaster rapids that look bad, but aren't and these take you down through Balmuccia to the confluence with the Sesia. Take out here, or better still continue on to the campsite. |
| 'Lesser Classics' always includes a section on 'Other Runs' |